Feast of the Seven Fishes connects families far and wide at Christmas

Christmas and the holiday season are great opportunities to bring families together from various parts of the country. Having family in the “old country” still, we use traditions to connect us with those who cannot be with us.
 
Some traditions are rooted in the spiritual and the religious. We may pray a daily devotion during Advent to bring us closer spiritually. Many families erect a Nativity scene to teach children the importance and history of the Christmas season. And in the Italian-American community, we “celebrate” 
the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or La Cena della Vigilia, on Christmas Eve.

This tradition has its roots in southern Italy and its fishing communities, although it is not as well known in many parts of Italy, particularly in the north. When I spoke with my cousin from Parma recently, I learned he had never heard of this feast. I had to explain to him what the tradition was and its underlying meanings. It was most likely incorporated into the Italian-American holiday tradition at the turn of the 20th century by families who were homesick and were desiring that connection to family, comfort, 
and the familiar.
 
Christians for many centuries have been associated with the sign of the fish both as a secret symbol and, more recently, as an expression of our unified faith. The Gospels tell many stories regarding fish. Several of Jesus’ apostles were fishermen, and he instructed them to become “fishers of men.” Jesus fed the five thousand close to the Sea of Galilee with “five loaves and two fish.” In Roman and Christian cultures, there is also a longstanding custom to use the number seven as a symbol of completeness. The creation story takes seven days. There are seven sacraments and seven deadly sins. It took Mary and Joseph seven days to travel to Bethlehem. There are seven hills in Rome.

Today, Italian Americans follow the tradition of the seven fishes for our Christmas celebration. Whether this is seven different types of seafood dishes or the same fish prepared seven different ways depends on individual family traditions.
 
Our family has used these criteria very loosely. Each year we set about a different version of the seven fishes. We have cooked seven different fish types — salmon, tuna, or other fin fish. We have made the same item, such as shrimp, in seven different preparations. This year we are planning an appetizer-style family gathering with seven different seafood items.
 
Regardless of your family’s traditions, Christmas and the holiday season are wonderful times to connect with family. The love shared in preparing these meals, serving these meals, and enjoying these meals brings us closer together. May you enjoy your own family traditions and, for new family unions, enjoy creating your blended family traditions. You are welcome to join our Italian American community and celebrate the Feast of the Seven Fishes.

CHEF RICHARD MICHELI is chef-owner at The Portofino Restaurant in Arlington, VA.